Hi David,Discussion like this is best suited for the Pro's Hangout. I'll move it over there.I think the chemistry is more complex than your formula. The compression psi values are very high in the data sheets and using as much water as you're referring to would lower that IMHO. And shrinkage would be an issue as well. But it's your money to experiment with, so experiment away.I, too, used to think SLC was a bit pricy. For example: a given room may need 8 bags and it's a couple hundred bucks. But when you realize that if you switched over to 8 bags of thinset and it would cost nearly the same $$$, it makes you realize it's the volume of material and not so much the bag price that makes it seem high $$$.Try finding Latilevel 84. It doesn't set as fast as its more expensive Latilevel 86 brother, but it's only $23/bag. But realize prices vary by shipping region throughout the US.
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Discussion like this is best suited for the Pro's Hangout. I'll move it over there.I think the chemistry is more complex than your formula. The compression psi values are very high in the data sheets and using as much water as you're referring to would lower that IMHO. And shrinkage would be an issue as well. But it's your money to experiment with, so experiment away.I, too, used to think SLC was a bit pricy. For example: a given room may need 8 bags and it's a couple hundred bucks. But when you realize that if you switched over to 8 bags of thinset and it would cost nearly the same $$$, it makes you realize it's the volume of material and not so much the bag price that makes it seem high $$$.Try finding Latilevel 84. It doesn't set as fast as its more expensive Latilevel 86 brother, but it's only $23/bag. But realize prices vary by shipping region throughout the US.
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Self leveling underlayment, also known as self leveling compound or floor leveler, is used to level out shallow dips and humps in a subfloor, prior to installing a finished floor covering. Because self leveling underlayment is very thin, it can be troweled out to make these small adjustments without adding an additional layer of subflooring.
Today we will discuss what self-leveling underlayment is, how it helps flatten a subfloor, and offer a couple of tips from the pros.
There are a few different mixtures of self-leveling underlayments available, but generally they all share the same basic idea. Consisting of very thin cement, polymers, and other ingredients, self leveling underlayment is designed to spread out and find its own level, just as any liquid. Special chemical binders also help the material bond to wood, concrete, and many other subfloor materials. Self-leveling underlayment has a very fine texture, and when mixed as directed forms a slurry that can be poured directly onto the subfloor.
In most situations, a typical homeowner can successfully work with this material. For those DIYers with experience mixing mortar or concrete, the project will seem familiar. Self leveling underlayment mixes very similarly to portland cement and uses the same tools to apply it. The material can also be used in layers, so if the floor has undulations greater than , more self leveling underlayment can be added.
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Be careful when applying self leveling underlayment in many layers, as self leveling underlayment is quite heavy. Adding too much weight to a wood framed floor system can cause floor support problems.
In most instances, the self-leveling underlayment will be used in preparation for tile, hardwood, or other finished floor covering. The professionals will often place a long level or straightedge on the subfloor to determine its flatness. If there are humps in the subfloor greater than , many times the best option is to use an appropriate sander to remove them. Next, the level or straightedge is again placed on the subfloor, but this time the target is light appearing under the tool.
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Light shining under the straightedge indicates a low spot. The pros will then mark this area with a pencil and apply the underlayment, spreading it out until it can be screeded. Screeding is the process of pulling a straightedge across the surface to remove any underlayment higher than and spread it to any low areas. The main goal is to fill in the dips without adding any more underlayment than necessary. Once it has been screeded, the underlayment can be troweled as needed and allowed to cure.
Generally, any finished flooring material can be applied over self-leveling underlayment. Because the material is applied in a very thin consistency, it can be used under carpet, sheet flooring, vinyl, tile, laminates and most other finished floors. Self leveling underlayment can also be applied under vapor barriers, carpet padding, and laminate foam underlayments as well.
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If available, use a corded, ½ drill and mixing paddle to mix in the water. Many cordless drills lack the chuck diameter or torque needed to turn a large paddle and may result in damage to the drill.
The material comes in bags similar to portland cement, mortar, and concrete. When mixed with water, self-leveling underlayment reacts chemically, just as cement would and begins to harden. If mixed to the correct consistency, self leveling underlayment will spread out when poured onto a surface and seek its own level, lessening the labor required for a very thin coat. If the material is mixed too densely, it will not flow easily and will usually require additional troweling.
However, self-leveling underlayment is not just watered down cement. Self leveling underlayment contains additional additives like polymers that allow it to flex slightly without breaking. Additional ingredients are added to improve its bonding to surfaces, and still others to keep the material thin so it will flow. Self leveling underlayment can also improve the bonding characteristics of adhesives, like carpet glue and engineered flooring adhesive.
Different manufacturers will have slightly different directions, but most will work in a similar way. Before the material can be mixed, the floor should be closely inspected for defects. Although it may seem insignificant, even a small irregularity on a floor surface can be troublesome after the finished floor is installed. The first step should be to scrape the floor to identify any fasteners or adhesives that protrude beyond the surface of the subfloor. After these are found and removed, a straightedge can be laid across the floor in sections to identify any humps or dips.
At this point, using the straight edge mentioned earlier, the next step is to identify the high areas and low areas. After the high spots have been corrected via sanding, the self leveling underlayment is mixed according to the manufacturers directions. With most brands, this slurry is often poured directly onto the subfloor and lightly screeded to help the material flow. After the material begins to solidify, a long trowel is often used in broad, arching movements to ensure the material fills in the low areas. After the material has cured, it can itself be sanded if needed to ensure the surface is flat.
How can using self leveling underlayment save money? Self leveling underlayment is not inexpensive, but compared to installing an additional layer of subflooring like 5/32 plywood sheets, it can save both money and time. Self leveling underlayment does not require the fasteners, materials, nor tools that an additional subfloor does, nor the effort to install them. In many situations, this makes self leveling underlayment the most cost effective solution for uneven floors.
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Concrete is a tough, durable material that is both long-lasting and relatively versatile, but over time the soil under the concrete can erode, leaving gaps and small voids that cause the concrete to sink or sag in places.
Instead of completely replacing the slab, you can invest in concrete leveling for about $500 to $1,700, with the average being around $1,500.
Joe Gerrior, owner of Gerrior Masonry & Landscaping Construction Corp., says that "the process often requires specialized equipment such as hydraulic pumps and a mix of slurry (a blend of water, sand, cement, and other additives)."
The pros fill the gaps and voids under the concrete by pumping the slurry through small holes that are drilled in the concrete. This process works stabilize the soil and level the concrete slab. Find out more about concrete leveling costs and methods with this informative guide.
Joe Gerrior is the owner of Gerrior Masonry & Landscape Construction Corp., a family-owned business based in Woburn, Massachusetts, serving residential and commercial clients for over 34 years. The company is known for its commitment to excellence in masonry and landscaping services.
Concrete Leveling Cost Factors
Concrete Slab Size
The larger the concrete slab, the more materials will be necessary to complete the project, increasing the material cost. Larger concrete slabs will often take longer to work with, causing the labor costs to increase.
Typically, if you were having the concrete slab mudjacked, then it would cost about $3 to $6 per square foot. However, if you were looking for a more permanent solution, then you may choose to have the concrete slab poly leveled, in which case the cost would increase to $5 to $25 per square foot.
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Materials
Common material options for concrete leveling include a stone slurry, concrete slurry, sand-based cement slurry, or polyurethane foam.
Labor
In most cases, concrete leveling doesn't take a lot of time, so labor will usually cost about $350 for a 100 square foot project. This labor fee includes mixing and pouring the leveling compound, drilling the concrete slab, and patching any holes after the job is complete.
Project Type
Concrete leveling a driveway will typically cost more than leveling a sidewalk or patio. This is generally due to the difference in size and thickness of the concrete slab, but can also be affected by the amount of material required or the method used to level the concrete.
While poly leveling is a great choice for important support structures, like the foundation or the garage slab, homeowners may only need to invest in mudjacking for smaller concrete slabs, like pathways, steps, or patios.
Additional Concrete Leveling Costs
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Concrete Core Drilling
Concrete core drilling is the process of drilling holes or channels through the concrete to allow the masonry pros to pump in a slurry or foam to level the concrete slab. Depending on the size of the slab, the concrete leveling crew may need to drill additional holes, which can increase the cost of the job by as much as $11 per square foot, or about $1,100 for a 100 square foot concrete slab.
Concrete Surface Grinding
After leveling the slab, you may notice that there are some parts of the concrete that are uneven. The masonry pros can address this issue by grinding down the surface of the concrete using an abrasive grinding tool. Concrete surface grinding comes at an additional cost of about $3 to $12 per square foot.
Concrete Polishing
Once the concrete slab is level and any uneven areas are taken care of with surface grinding, you can ask the masonry pros to polish the concrete floor. Polishing helps to hide any patches or areas where concrete core drilling was necessary to level the slab. Plan to spend around $3 to $15 per square foot for professional concrete polishing.
Concrete Leveling Methods
Mudjacking
One of the more basic options for concrete leveling is known as mudjacking. This involves creating a mixture of dement, water, soil, and sand, then drilling two-inch wide holes through the concrete slab and pumping the slurry into the gaps and voids below to lift the concrete slab up to it's original height.
Generally, mudjacking last about five to 10 years before the slab will need to be leveled again. However, you will only spend about $3 to $6 per square foot, making mudjacking the most affordable choice.
Sandjacking
Sandjacking doesn't require the masonry professional to drill through the concrete slab. Instead, a mixture of dry limestone sand and water is used to make a slurry that can be pumped into the gaps and voids from the sides of the concrete slab.
This also means that sandjacking works best in areas where the soil is wet. Plan to spend between $3 and $8 per square foot for professional sandjacking.
Poly Leveling
Poly leveling is also known as foam leveling because it uses polyurethane foam to level the concrete instead of relying on a concrete, sand, or stone slurry. The contractors will drill through the concrete slab, similar to mudjacking, then they will inject polyurethane foam into the gaps and voids under the slab. The foam expands in the space, stabilizing the soil and leveling the concrete.
Using this method, you can expect the repair to last for over a decade, though at $5 to $25 per square foot, poly leveling is substantially more expensive than mudjacking or sandjacking.
Stone Slurry Grout Concrete Leveling
When the concrete slab requires a firm base to help support substantial weight, like an oversized truck or multiple cars, then stone slurry grout concrete leveling is a good option. The slurry that is pumped into the gaps and crevices under the slab is made by combining compacted limestone with a water-based concrete. The slurry fills any uneven areas and creates a strong foundation under the slab, though the cost for this service can be higher than poly leveling, with a price range from $7&#;$25 per square foot.
DIY vs. Professional Concrete Leveling Costs
Typically, DIYers with the right tools and materials can fix minor concrete slab problems, like leveling several patio stones or repairing an uneven walkway. However, the larger the concrete slab, the longer it will take and the less likely that the average DIYer will be able to complete the project without problems.
"Potential issues during concrete leveling include improper slurry injection, which can lead to further shifting, or using substandard materials that don't provide long-lasting support," Gerrior says. "Hiring a professional is essential for ensuring the job is done correctly, preventing future settling, and avoiding potential voids under the concrete."
A crew of trained professionals will ensure the work is completed to a higher level of quality than a single DIYer could achieve on their own. Additionally, the pros will often offer a warranty or guarantee on the work.
Replacing vs. Leveling Concrete
Concrete leveling isn't always an option. Generally, if the concrete is too thin, brittle, or too heavily damaged, then the contractor will need to break up the slab, haul away the old concrete, then pour a new slab to replace what was removed.
Concrete replacement costs more than concrete leveling and also takes more time and effort to complete. For these reasons, it's best to use concrete leveling whenever possible to repair existing concrete slabs.
Best Time of Year to Save Money on Concrete Leveling
Concrete leveling will typically take place during spring, summer, and early fall when the weather is relatively nice. To get better prices for this work, try to book the project for early spring, late fall, or even into early winter, when the demand for concrete leveling services is at it's lowest.
FAQ
Is concrete lifting worth it?
Concrete lifting is definitely worth the investment. As long as the job is done properly, concrete lifting is more efficient and affordable than simply replacing the concrete slab, and tends to take less time.
How long does concrete leveling last?
It depends on the concrete leveling method. While mudjacking will only last about five to 10 years, poly leveling can last well over a decade before the concrete will need to be leveled again.
Will self-leveling concrete crack?
Self-leveling concrete can crack, though this depends on the bonding and movement of the concrete slab. If the self-leveling concrete does not bond well or the concrete slab moves or shifts, then there is a chance that the self-leveling concrete will crack.
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